Made Up Initiative - Simplicity 8523 - FAIL!

Hello!

Hope you are having a glorious weekend!

So this has been a journey that I was hoping to finish by the deadline of 10th September as pledged but unfortunately it wasn't meant to be!

I used fabric bought here (top one) which has a fair amount of stretch in it...as you can see by the picture below my top is stretched out at all angles so I am guessing it doesn't have good recovery from the stretch

The stretched out armholes are just beyond saving.  I don't know what I have done- I stay stitched and tried my best not to be too rigorous when using the bias tape to edge. I'm gutted and totally lost my sewing mojo!

I am determined not to give up on this clothes making lark as I love it just too much but I really need a satisfying make up my (non-stretched) sleeve! I am actually hitting the Xmas present sewing hard today to try make something easy and lovely then I may have another go at this bloody top! Aaaargh I just want to scream at it!!!!

How do you get out of a sewing lull?

Thanks for reading
Kristy xxx

Simplicity 8523 Muslin - Round 2

Hello Everyone,

Wednesday again! Every weekend should be a three day weekend, definitely makes for an easier working week that is for sure!

My morning has been pretty chaotic, worked from home due to a doctors appointment and let the plumbers in to check on the small leak I had reported to the landlord, by the time I had to leave my kitchen flooring was all up and a massive hole in the foyer (sounds grander than it is but I cannot think of a better word) ceiling had a massive hole in it. Turns out to be a leak coming from the boiler which means the heating hasn't been working - we moved in end of April and not had the heating on yet so didn't know that but the ceiling/my floor (we are upstairs flat) is all rotten and needs replacing. Dreading the mess when I get home!

Anyway, Simplicity 8523 has not got the better of me! Yay!

YAY!

This is what I did to the pattern...

• Retraced the pattern from scratch
• lowered the neckline by 4cm
• brought in the shoulders on the front and back (at the correct place this time) by 4.5cm
• Lengthened by 5cm
• I decided against the FBA and to just stop being overly cautious

And this is how muslin number 4 turned out

Muslin 4

Still not happy with the depth of the V - I do not want the lady lumps out but I also don't want to look frumpy.  The arm holes gaped, but was expecting that after last time but was happy with where the shoulders hit, will be happier when turned under into binding when in real fabric. So I followed the same gaping armhole tutorial as last time and lowered the V by another 1.5cm and sewed up muslin number 5

Not great pictures...but LOOK - IT FITS!!!!

No gaping armhole (but a strange fat armpit?!)...V perfect depth

So does the back! I can move my arms around freely, and its a good length.

After all these alterations my pattern looked a bit strange but I managed to round off the armhole perfectly fine (I bought a french curve - a really cheap one - and helped A LOT)

So, my fabric is cut for my first attempt at this in something other than sheeting fabric, I have redrawn facings for the front, cut out bias binding for the armholes and cut the back facing and have washed and ironed fabric for a second attempt - I am hoping I am not being too confident and this actually works! Also managed to easily fit it into 1m of fabric - bonus!

I am hoping to make good progress on this tonight as I have 8 days left of the Made Up Initiative - if you haven't already  made a pledge and donated why don't you give it a go? It is for an amazing charity! I am at a hen do this weekend and when I get home sunday I am not confident I will be wanting to sew so need to get lots done tonight!

Happy sewing and thanks for reading!
Kristy

Simplicity 8523 Muslin - Round 1

Hello,

Here is the start of my Made Up Initiative pledge to sew a top that isn't boxy and I will wear, a lot!

I have started with Simplicity 8523. This is my first time using a Big 4 pattern, so far all my attempts have been an Indie pattern company. I cut view F in a straight size 16 (I think, it may have been a 14 - the pattern envelope doesn't actually tell you the size) as this measured against my bust perfectly so I thought I may escape the FBA. I did lengthen by 5cm on the correct lines as I hate short tops.

I have previously done some toiles in polycotton sheeting, so I bought some more. I find this the most economical of fabric but I have to bear in mind that is it stiff fabric (suppose I could pre-wash it) but as it is double width you get loads for £3.98 a metre - it was from Forrest Fabric which with free delivery is a steal! Also was delivered within 2 days of paying - will defo order from them again.

Anyway - muslin number 1 - please excuse terrible mirror shots and seeing my underwear through...

The good - from the bust down was happy, not boxy (wooop), comfortable when sat down and a really good length

The bad - V-neck way too high (even when taking into account turn under)

The ugly - gaping armhole and wide shoulder

First step was to try fix the gaping armhole, I followed the Burdastyle tutorial of creating a dart then transferring the dart from the armhole to the bust dart, I actually had to do this twice as I think I was a bit conservative the first time.

Please pretend you cannot see the state of my floor - it is all patterns and tracing paper and sheeting fabric, was all cleaned up once finished. Promise.

I then deepened the V trying hard to keep some modestly and brought in the shoulder line.

I then copied this onto some royal blue fabric I had and made an absolute mess of it. The fabric (blue linen) was a sheer, loose weave - this made it hard to cut, hard to mark, and I had the bright idea of self lining and I just made a total mess out of it, I seam ripped a lot due to mistakes, ripped the fabric fabric, pulled the fabric out of shape, due to double fabric the seams were bulky, the fabric wouldn't press and just looked horrific so it went straight in the bin without a picture (sorry). 

One thing was obvious though, when transferring the new shoulder line to the back piece of the pattern I have taken it from the inside of shoulder not the outside (stupid mistake) but it made the neckline gape at the back and the top hang funny. The armhole also was way too high.

Things to do on my next muslin:

• retrace the pattern and start again
• do a small FBA to hopefully stop the slight pulling from bust to waist
• Before sewing up make the V slightly deeper
• change the shoulder line before cutting
• do another change to the gaping armhole
• keep fingers and toes crossed all the changes work!!
• I may need to lower the armhole and redraw shape once the darts have been altered
• do not get inpatient and want to cut into real fabric before being happy with the fit. 
• brush my hair and put on some make up so I can take real photos for my blog instead of headless mirror selfies!

I really need to work on my patience levels and not expect perfection on the first (second, third or fourth) attempt. This top definitely could be a staple, IF I am patient, get it right now and can make it a million times, in different fabrics, colour blocked and dress it up, dress it down, basically use it a lot. It is worth the effort. I think I am finding it more frustrating as I just want to sew not do all this, but it is part of the process. 

I really need to hurry up and make some progress on this as the end of the pledge is 2 weeks tomorrow, I have a couple of things on this weekend (including a Michelin starred meal - nom nom nom) but it is a long weekend so should squeeze in some sewing but next weekend I am on a hen weekend. I am in London though so can squeeze in sometime Sunday if not feeling too hungover!

Also, is it a muslin or a toile? I use the terms interchangeably, maybe because I read a lot of UK and American blogs?

Anyway, thanks for reading this long post!

Kristy xxx

Searching for the perfect woven top...

Hello,

No actual sewing here today to show you but I just wanted to show you what I am aiming for in my sewing!
So basically I went through the Warehouse, Coast, Dorothy Perkins, French Connection, Joy and Hobbs websites to see if there was anything that jumped out to me and saved the picture (I also did it for Oasis but the pictures wouldn't format in the collages). I limited this to woven tops as this is what my next make will be.

Warehouse

Dorothy Perkins

French Connection

Joy

Hobbs

http://www.coast-stores.com/all-tops/dept/fcp-category/list

In a dream world this is what my top selection would look like and what I would buy on the high street, you know if going shopping didn't make me want to kill myself as my boobs so not fit in ANYTHING in any (except Dotty Ps) of these shops unless it is jersey.

It is quite obvious I like a certain silhouette! These kind of tops (if fit the lady lumps) are loose over my belly so not self concious but look feminine and can get in gorgeous fabrics.

I said in my previous post that I am going to try making muslins for these patterns:

SBCC Mimosa Blouse

Simplicity 8523

Angel Sleeve Top

And I really cannot stop looking at the Sutton Blouse by True Bias 

but I will try the above three first before buying anymore patterns! Even thought there are so many nice versions out there......

Can anyone suggest any different patterns that maybe match some of my chosen pictures above?

Thanks for stopping buy!

Kristy

p.s. Have you seen my new blog background? Pretty huh?

Pattern Shopping

High five!

I was incredibly lucky to win a £25 voucher from the new sewing and craft online shop Weaver Dee they have a great collection of everything sewing related and the voucher has been burning a hole in my virtual pocket ever since! I originally thought I would use it towards an overlocker but today some sewing patterns happened to have dropped into my shopping basket so I decided to go ahead and buy them...

First up:

M6959

Well in my previous post I told you I couldn't stop thinking about it so now I have got it for free - EXCITED!

BD6974

 I really like view A - this is a really simple skirt but as I am still learning I think this will be a good place to start - plus I have NO summer wardrobe. Pinterest has given me a good few ideas for this skirt:

Pinterest board has the links to each picture on there

I love the sequin idea for a hen do I have coming up....my brain is now ticking!

BD6973

 I looked at this for the skirt only to be honest, really like it, doesnt use much yardage either which is ALWAYS a bonus but interesting lines. I actually like the dress too but we shall see - but for just under £3 it is a bargain

S8523

This is in search of a perfect everyday top, I really wanted a V neck top so hopefully this will fit the bill!

B5317

and I have taken a bit of a chance on this, I think this just may suit me, I like the strappy version better and like the contrasting fabrics. It will cover up my belly without making me look like im in a maternity dress hopefully while being able to do a decent FBA! Yuk to curvy problems!

Last week I also bought Tilly and the Buttons Miette 

I didn't really think this was for me but the more I thought about everyday wearing clothes the more I liked this! I think I would like to do a hack of removing the ties though as I will never wear a top tucked in (more curvy girl problems!) so may just add too much bulk...decisions

Just would like to say a massive Thank You to Weaver Dee for the voucher, it has made Friday a much happier place today!

I have also bought a book on fit, I read an exert on shoulder fit somewhere on the web today and seemed very easy to understand while explaining why it needs to be done

Fast Fit: Easy Pattern Alterations for Every Figure - Sandra Betzina

I did buy it off of eBay though, I will let you know how I get on with it. Now someone PLEASE take my bank cards away, change my PayPal password and disable ALL 'add to cart' buttons before I have to declare bankruptcy and kick my boyfriend out of our home to make way for all this sewing related stuff...

Many thanks!

Happy weekend people! 

Song of the day - Friday I'm in Love by The Cure - ENJOY!