Tuesday, 5 July 2016

Simplicity 1364


This is a top I finished a while ago, I have been totally in love with it and wanting to cut more instantly but now I have seen the pictures I am not 100% but we shall see!

So the first challenge was trying to decide what the difference between versions B and C were, bear in mind there also is no seperate pattern pieces for each...the gorgeous Instagram community told me that it is one is cut on the grain and one isn't so it slightly affects the size.

Size wise I decided to go for the size that fit my bust and see how many alterations were actually needed rather than do an FBA and then removing the excess from the armholes and rotating into the dart as this is two muslins and I was feeling lazy. Here is the straight size 22 out of the packet

Massive armhole gape

And I have realised I have a hollow chest
The adjustments I made were pretty extensive:

  • I added a dart at the armhole. I thought about rotating it into the french darts at the waist but I don't think it looks bad. 
  • I reshaped the armhole to allow for the dart
  • I followed a tutorial for a hollow chest -  that Jessica from Always a Crafty Lady posted a link to - it is a PDF so won't let me pin it but I pinned Jessicas post! I love Jessicas blog, she is so smiley! So I lowered the shoulder at the neck side by 1cm and tapered it to nothing at the shoulder side
  • I didn't add a zip - don't see why need one in this top!
  • I lengthened by 5cm, which is normal for me 
  • On the final top I ended up taking in the side seams by 1cm at the arm and in by 2cm at the waist to nothing at the hip
  • I lowered the neckline by 5cm to stop myself feeling choked 
  • I didn't use any facings, just bias taped all the edges - and learned to always change thread for that as it looks a hot mess with navy thread and white bias but no one will see the insides
This sounds a lot, but it didn't take long at all. 

To cut and sew the final top wasn't the 2 hours suggested on the envelope but was definitely a quick make. 

I used the same gingham as my Delphine skirt  so this was a great economical make.

As I said I loved this but it doesn't look great fitting on these photos, but it feels nice on so i should just accept it. I am really looking forward to making it in some drapey viscoses I have in my stash, I may take the shoulders in a cm or two to make it sit neater next time!

Thanks for reading as always :)

Kristy xxx

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